South American travelogue, winter 2008
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- Week 1 (Jan. 24-31): Buenos Aires
February 1, 2008 - Susan and Tom’s South American travelogue, (North American) winter 2008
Thursday-Friday, January 24-25
Smooth, on-time United red-eye nonstop from Dulles to Buenos Aires, arriving just before noon. Prearranged pickup with driver Amérigo Guzmán at airport worked perfectly; his driving with little
regard to lanes startled Tom, but Susan said that was normal for many South American drivers. Arrived at nice apartment in Recoleta district where agent Paula awaited to check us in. Leafy, lively
area with many street¬side restaurants and much night life. Easy neighborhood shopping, banking, etc. After late lunch, returned to find water dripping from air conditioner in significant quantity--a
quick phone call revealed the source of the problem as an overflowing plastic container on the balcony. Dodging dripping air conditioners is just part of the walking experience here and now we know
why!
Then on to wrestle semi-successfully with computer connections. Turns out the wireless router in the apartment isn't working, but direct connection to cable modem is ok.
Lovely late dinner (many restaurants serve until 1:00 a.m.) a few blocks away at Lola’s, sitting in beautiful garden and comfortable in just light shirts.
Saturday, January 26
Vonage VOIP phone service set up and working flawlessly for easy calls to US and much of South America. Meandered through huge flea market just the other side of Recoleta cemetery; good quality and
prices. On through cemetery, quite large and consisting almost entirely of good-sized, expensive-looking family mausoleums instead of graves. A main attraction is Evita’s resting place, in Duarte
family mausoleum. Apparently it was a bit of a stretch by local standards for her somewhat downscale family to get place in cemetery. Late dinner at excellent grill a longish walk from apartment;
much leftover meat to take home from large servings. Interesting small difference from American custom: salt always on table, usually no pepper unless you ask for it.
Impressions of city, on first visit for either of us: Central areas seem wealthy despite recent economic history; very European--feels somewhat like Barcelona only considerably larger. Susan says it
feels more European than the Santiago she recalls. Seems quite safe despite some warnings not to be out with passport, many credit cards, much cash. Uniformed, orange-vested police on solo watch are
numerous. Lovely weather, like Honolulu--highs in mid-80s, lows in middle to high 60s; apparently and fortunately cooler than average for this time of year. Clean outdoor air; no smoking in public
indoor spaces; more smoking on streets than in US; much less obesity. Many nice large and small parks. Retrofitted curb cuts at every corner. The lack of ethnic diversity is striking, not at all what
we’re accustomed to at home--somewhat like Adelaide and Perth in Australia. Susan found in travel book that Argentina is the least ethnically diverse country in South America, with 97% of the
population of European (especially Spanish and Italian) origin. Apparently they virtually exterminated the native population remarkably late, in the 1870s and 1880s. And the near-absence of blacks
seems at least in part to be the result of a genocidal army practice of placing them in the front lines at 19th-century battles. (What did they do with the black women?)
Sunday, January 27
Late-morning walk toward city center, passing through flea market again, for brunch at lovely old Mansions restaurant in Four Seasons hotel, where Madonna rehearsed on balcony for her role in Evita.
Prices are very moderate by American standards, with this being one of the few remaining places where exchange rates for US dollar still seem favorable. For those from countries with stronger
currencies like Britain and the Euro zone, Argentina has to be a great bargain right now. Supper off leftovers back in apartment. Tom is finding that he enjoys being retired (much as he liked and
still likes work), and Susan doesn’t seem to mind it either!
Monday, January 28
Out to US embassy in mid-morning to get extra pages for passports; ugly building and chaotic scene with 2½-hour wait to get passports back, but no charge. Cab ride in light rain to restaurant in
neighboring Palermo district, highly recommended in 2007 guidebook but obviously abandoned for some time. Another place just across street was fine, with servings again generous enough for
substantial leftovers. To travel agency in mid-afternoon to plan trip after Buenos Aires, surprisingly rigid about just doing packaged tours despite billing itself as the agency for independent
travelers. On to walking tour along nearby, long Calle Florida pedestrian shopping street, anchored by city’s top shopping mall--Galerías Pacífico from 1891, built in style of Galleria Vittorio
Emanuele II in Milan, and converted back from railroad offices in 1992. Shaded, pleasant Plaza San Martín at one end; more open Plaza de Mayo near the other. Plaza de Mayo has Casa Rosada,
presidential palace, at one end; mothers of the disappeared from the dirty war of 1976-83 still demonstrate in plaza on Thursdays. Marching guards in 19th-century uniforms came to lower national flag
in front of palace at 7:00 p.m. Back to Lola’s, because we’d liked it so much the first time, for another excellent dinner.
Tuesday, January 29
Travel-arrangements day. Out in early afternoon, after Tom ran, for lunch at neighborhood pub and on to Automóvil Club Argentino’s impressive headquarters for maps and guidebooks. Local pub served
outstanding hamburger without bun, single serving of two pieces that with accompaniments were ample for the two of us. From club back to travel agent to book rental car, on to Hertz to confirm
booking. Can take car to Chile, Brazil, Uruguay but not Paraguay--too much crime, apparently. Saves a second visa application. Went from Hertz office to parts of nearby Plaza San Martín that we
hadn’t seen before, including monument to Argentine dead in Falklands/Malvinas war with eternal flame and Big Ben semi-replica ironically nearby. Many nice older buildings around Plaza, including
large Círculo Militár that’s now a museum and used to be the mansion of family that owned La Prensa. Modern architecture here is often mediocre--they may have had more money when they built the older
buildings. Back to apartment to make more dents on leftovers.
Wednesday, January 30
Out for lunch in older San Telmo neighborhood across town, where wealthier residents had made way for immigrants when yellow fever infested that quarter. Restaurant we’d picked from 2007 Frommer’s
city guide was out of business like the one in Palermo. Fortunately, no shortage of alternatives. Ended up at classic Bar El Federal -from 1864, designated a bar notable and so preserved in antique
style. Area is more low-rise than much of rest of city we’ve seen, with lots of antique shops and art galleries. Walked over to water, long man-made inlet with segmented rectangular pools and swing
bridges to let boats through, although little water traffic (main port is elsewhere); some yachts in marina at one end. Many restaurants in converted older buildings, big new Hilton, more modern
high-rises than elsewhere. Throughout parts of city we’ve seen so far, fewer visible signs of poverty than we’re used to in US cities--not many homeless or beggars, although we were surprised the
other day by well-dressed woman begging on Calle Florida shopping street as must have been more common some years ago during the crash. Back to apartment for work on casebooks, etc., with co-authors
producing and needing to be kept up with! Out for dinner at nice Italian restaurant; huge servings (at least they told us their single orders were for two to share), more leftovers brought home.
Heavy rain as we returned by taxi.
Thursday, January 31
A significant profession here is dog-walking. You see the walkers going along with six-eight (Susan reports seeing with one with nine, from two miniature Dachshunds to a yellow Lab) dogs at a time,
leaving others tethered in smaller groups awaiting their turn after the walker gets back with one clutch. No other runners out either of the two times Tom has gone running. A work day for Tom, since
casebook co-authors are writing at least as fast as he can read! Out to same local pub for lunch, some shopping, otherwise editing and, for dinner, finishing last night’s leftovers.
